Wednesday, 27 February 2013

A beginner's guide to ice climbing

1. The beginning of any ice climb normally involves a hike to the actual climb through deep snow and trees, often up a steep slope, while carrying a heavy rucksack full of gear. This is called bush-wacking. If you're lucky it will be a popular climb and someone else will have done the breaking trail for you.
2. Ice climbs are done on frozen waterfalls, which are very beautiful things. You'll have lots of time to admire them while you're standing at the bottom belaying.


3. You probably won't be admiring the frozen waterfall quite so much while you're trying to climb it. At that time you'll most likely be cursing the unique properties of ice that make it too hard to punch holds in while at the same time it breaks off in big chunks that crash down on top of your belayer and ruin the hold you were trying to punch in. You may find yourself thinking wistfully of gin and tonic.
4. You punch holds in the ice with crampons and ice axes. You're held up by a climbing harness and rope. If someone's leading the climb rather than top-roping, they'll be using lethal looking ice screws. Even if you aren't normally excited by hardwear, you will quickly become au fait with all this paraphernalia.

 

5. If you're lucky enough to go ice climbing with someone who's very good at it, listen to their advice and try to follow it. Even if it's your little brother. 
6. Eventually - if you kick your front points in straight, flick your wrist while whacking the ice axe, find footholds properly balanced below your handholds, and keep your heels down and your bum out - you might suddenly find yourself most of the way up the waterfall, and realise with surprise that you're feeling focused, in control and not scared at all.
7. This is the time to feel incredibly pleased with yourself and give a little cheer. But keep that focus until you've abseiled back down and have your feet on solid snow again.

Me, quite a long way up a frozen waterfall

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